At some point we would arrive in Iquitos today; the ship was faster than predicted and I had to get used to my reality again. I had no documents and no money. I could resolve the documents only in Brazil; they could become a serious issue soon at the Peruvian / Brazilian border when I have to cross the river from Santa Rosa to Tabatinga. I could resolve the money right now; I started to ask the few backpackers from the ship that I had not asked before. The ship had become pretty empty during the last stops in the night. As per prison policy the ship did not have electricity this morning and I was forced to walk up and down the ship.
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I went straight to the 2 German girls and told them my story of my theft in Quito. Maybe the other backpackers, maybe the German couple had already spoken to them and my story was not really new to them, the situation now that I was asking for help was. The reaction was overwhelming and a very, very big surprise; they grabbed their wallets instantly and I received a 10 Sol bill from one girl and a 20 Sol bill from the other girl. Thank you, thank you very much; I did not know how much money I would need but with 30 Soles in my pocket just few hours before arrival my confidence was back and I could not believe my luck.
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I had not spoken to the girls before but now I wanted to and I had to and at least know the basic. Both girls were working in a social program for a year living together with about 25 homeless and / or difficult children in a house in the city of Arequipa. They had worked 6 month so far and decided to spend their annual 30 days holidays to get to know Peru better. I hope you enjoy your holidays, your work and wish that you come home safe, thank you very much again and again. I had prison lunch and suddenly the arrival was announced and really the ship slowed down the engine and turned into a side river towards the port of Iquitos.
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I packed my stuff and was ready and still had the time to take some pictures of the waterfront and the different docks and yards and ports. We had to stop first at the immigration port for the obligatory inspection and could not leave the ship. Instead of waiting for an hour small boats had arrived to offer the immediate passage to the next dock. All Gringos stayed together and took the same boat to the next dock for 1 Sol each. The group had met on the ship and had the same destination for the last day’s but now everybody went in different directions. I had time to say good bye to most of the backpackers and walked to the exit. Several moto taxis stopped and offered their service; I did not want to spend money on the kilometer to the next port but one driver insisted to take me; free. What is going on again?
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The port was very busy, passengers arriving and departing, cargo arriving and departing, moto taxis arriving and departing, trucks arriving and departing, pick-ups arriving and departing, cars arriving and departing, mobile snack stands selling everything from food and drinks to hammocks and cosmetics. I was at the right place, the right dock, the right port but just 1 ship, the Maria Fernanda would leave this weekend to Santa Maria, actually tonight at 19:30 hours. I asked for the price; 70 Soles was cheap and an achievable amount for a professional beggar in the time given. I had 4 hours; I had 34 Soles and needed another 36 Soles. I went to the upper deck of the Maria Fernanda and met Georg from Germany, told him the story of my theft in Quito, had to back up the story with the proof of my police report and received another unbelievable 20 Soles. Thank you very much Georg, thank you very much.
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With already now 54 Soles in my pocket I was very confident to get the money, went to the next ship, walked to the upper deck, asked the backpackers and received another 5 Soles. I ran into a group of South American van travelers, did not ask for money but asked about their adventure, about the prices for the transport of the van. I wanted that information to have already an understanding how much I would have to pay for my transport of my friend from Manaus to Belem. They wanted to take the Maria Fernanda as well but still had to overcome the bureaucracy and find the right place to load off their vans from the platform. They had arrived from Yurimaguas this morning with a ship pushing a platform. I hope to see you later on the Maria Fernanda and have more time to talk.
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I still had plenty of time, had done the first round within the port, had earned significant money and wanted to have a look outside the port on the commercial street and the shops. First I had a drink and another drink and some biscuit. The chance to get help, to get money here was very, very little; the area was rough and the area was poor, even the businessmen were poor. There was no way I would get the money here. I had a curious, fascinated and shocked look at the grill with the crocodile meat and walked straight back to the port.
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I waited at the entrance for the arrival of more Gringos’ or some wealthy people from Iquitos. First I spotted a group of 3, definitely Gringos’, a girl and 2 men, I spoke to them and achieved 5 Soles. I was back on track and spoke to a moto driver and made another 2 Soles. Finally I spoke to a businessman in his SUV; he was a generous and understanding businessman and handed me 10 Soles. I had almost reached the target but I wanted to have a bit more for some drinks, Peruvian ships may not offer water. I was very confident and went to the Maria Fernanda, spoke to Georg and hung up my hammock already next to him and secure my spot; I would definitely take the Maria Fernanda tonight.
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I met the South American van travelers again and they had come to an agreement with the Maria Fernanda, the ship would pick them up at a different dock at around 20:00 hours. I was happy for them and would see them later tonight. I still had to continue my task and managed to sell the hammock from Joao for 5 Soles, received another 7 Soles from various others and bought now the ticket for 70 Soles and had still 12 Soles left. I closed down my small business and went to my hammock to rest a bit and met Arthur from France. An authentic naturist who had been travelling for the last 6 month by himself and was now on his way to meet up with his girlfriend, travel a bit more and then go to Switzerland to start a new job in the mountains and herd cows throughout the summer, 7 days a week, day and night. If I would have the chance I would really love to visit you Arthur with my baby Matilda and stay with you for some time watching cows, what a great job.
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The ship was on time and we left the harbor to pick up the vans at a different dock further up the stream, a procedure which still took about 1 hour, more the administration than the actual loading. We left Iquitos and I was heading for the triple border Brazil – Colombia – Peru. I ran down to welcome the South American van crew and at the same time say good night. The ship did not offer food anymore, no dinner, no soup, only breakfast tomorrow morning. I would have to get up very early and stand in line for whatever they will serve. Good night.
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For a small understanding of the days travel, I have included a Google Earth map. The red pins mark the locations I have stopped and taken pictures. At the bottom of the page you will find a link for all the pictures I have taken. The link will open in a Picasa album. At the top left of this Picasa album you will find the button for a Slideshow.
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See map and distances / Siehe Karte und Entfernungen / Ver mapa e distâncias / Ver mapa y distancias
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